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Filtering by Tag: Automat

Automat Burger with cheese and bacon

Burgerac

£14 with fries. Add £1 for bacon or cheese. Or, for £16 you could get two better burgers from somewhere else. File under "Don't bother"

When I recently spied Automat listed in a reputable publication's feature entitled "London's 10 Best Burgers", I added it to the Burgerac Burger Hit List. Having now tried one, I've added Automat to the Burgerac Burger Shit List...

Automat, situated round the corner from Green Park tube station in Mayfair, is a weird spot. Decor-wise it seems to be a strange blend of Victorian hallway (the black and white tiles on the floor), 1940s bistro (the wooden furniture), New York deli (white brick tiles on the wall) – and then there's a wood-clad, railway carriage style middle section with leather upholstered booths – which is the nicest part of the restaurant by far. 

We were led through the nice bit to the restaurant space at the back, which was pleasant enough, though there must have been a problem with the extractor fans in the open plan kitchen area (also at this rear end, so to speak, of the restaurant) because the place was slightly uncomfortably smokey.

Smokiness aside, I was there to try the Automat Burger so I ordered one, with additional cheese and bacon, but it turned out to be nothing particularly special. To be honest, it was touch and go as to whether or not I could be bothered to write up the experience, so uninspired was I by my Automat Burger. I was actually dining with Mr Burger Monday himself, Daniel Young of Young & Foodish and when we started comparing notes (it was inevitable), he thought the patty too thin for a gourmet burger, and I had to agree with him – although it was the lack of flavour, rather than height, which really bothered me.

The patty - besides being thin and of large circumference - was made of rather too finely ground meat which lacked any real flavour, and I presume the meat used was too lean to make a truly great burger, and that the chef had also under seasoned it. The fries didn't look great and when I picked one up to give it a try, it was soggy and limp. Boo, and furthermore, hiss...

On a positive note, the bacon in my burger was tasty and cooked well, but alas there wasn't enough of it to make any flavour impact to the burger. The cheese formed a bland yellow blanket of stodge which probably did a great job of holding the crumbly, lean patty together. Underwhelming is probably the most polite way to describe the Automat Burger. A complete waste of time (and no small amount of money) would be another.

Although it consists of everything that a burger, technically, needs to exist, there's one key ingredient that's all too notable for its absence: love. There's just no passion in this burger. It's like the kitchen staff are just going through the motions – rendering the whole exercise pointless.

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Automat
33 Dover Street
Mayfair
London
W1S 4NF
For opening times / reservations, call 020 7499 3033