£10 in this subterranean Soho cocktail bar buys you two mini versions of classic Lucky Chip burgers served with a pot of fries. Score!
Normally on Burgerac I review and rate one particular burger at a restaurant – but doing so seems totally irrelevant in the case of Slider Bar
, Lucky Chip's recent opening at subterranean Soho bar The Player.
The whole point here is that you don't have one thing, but rather try a few different small plates...
The truth is that Slider Bar (accessed via a fairly inconspicuous doorway next to Agent Provocateur on Broadwick Street, slap bang in the middle of Soho) isn't a restaurant at all, but a long established cocktail bar that now serves food in the shape of small but perfectly formed fast food-themed dishes cooked up by the clever-clogs behind Lucky Chip.
I'm making this point because if you want to go to a restaurant, then go somewhere else. However, if you want to combine cocktails with bite-size burgers that are among London's very finest (and who doesn't?), then get down to Slider Bar!
Miniature takes on fast food classics is what this place is all about, with Fish & Chips (cod, scallops and fish-skin crisps), a Chicken Bucket and Pork Tacos all making an appearance on the appetiser menu. Me and mine ordered the Chicken Bucket which arrived as below on a small metal tray lined with greaseproof paper printed with lovely illustrations by Burgermat Show
contributor Rob Flowers
, no less:
Actually, Mr Flowers has created three different clusters of illustrations which adorn different plates. If you order the Fish & Chips you get a different sheet with blue and white fishy illustrations, and the slider trays come out with burger-themed illustrations on the tray paper (as below). Nice!
But I digress... where was I? Ah yes, the Chicken Bucket tray arrives with a mini bucket full of succulent pieces of deep fried chicken, and it also comes loaded with a pot of beautiful coleslaw, four breaded balls of cheesy stuff and a kind of reduced chicken-stock sauce to dribble on your chicken for a double whammy / extra dimension of chicken-ness.
The yellow sauce in the third pot is, in case you were wondering, a kind of creamed sweetcorn. I want to call it sweetcorn custard on account of its colour and texture. On its own, licked off a curious finger, it was super sweet and a little weird. Dip the chicken in it and it all makes sense.
There being a few of us, we also ordered the Pork Tacos too which came served as above - with the pork housed under a steamy bell jar - which provided a nice piece of food theatre.
Next up came our sliders. For £10 you can choose two sliders from the menu and they come with a pot of French fries and a little cup of a sweet, frothy citrus drink - which acts as an unusual but rather splendid palate cleanser. Delicious!
Now, there will be people who are disappointed that Slider Bar doesn't actually serve sliders
but rather use the word, as so many people seem to, to describe mini burgers. But despair-ye-not because all of the "sliders" on offer here are mini versions of well established Lucky Chip favourites such as the Royale with Cheese, the El Chappo and the Fillet-Oh-Fish. And the really great news is that somehow by simply being small, the "sliders" on offer are are exquisite, both in cuteness and taste. Even the fries seem miniature but are bang on the money: perfectly crisp, perfectly salted, and the perfect amount.
I've been to SB a couple of times now and while I had to wait a while for food to arrive on my first visit, I had no such problems second time around. Both times the food was ace and the service friendly. If it's mini burgers you're after, you'll be hard pressed to find any in London better than Slider Bar's.
PS It's not mentioned on the menu but if you visit Slider Bar at lunchtime, you can order a full size burger version of any of the sliders on the menu. Mum's the word!
8 Broadwick Street
020 7065 6800
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